About Desert Hardwood Flooring & Sylvan Incao
Owner Sylvan Incao first moved to Arizona from New York state in 1992 to attend college. After completing his B.A. Sylvan entered the trades, first working as a painting contractor, but quickly moving into all forms of renovation work, especially flooring. From there Sylvan began purchasing and renovating homes in the Prescott area, focusing on older historic homes.
Trained since teenage years in woodworking and stone masonry, applying his craftsmanship and eye for beauty to these projects was both challenging and rewarding. In 2004 Sylvan and a business partner opened a retail flooring store in Prescott Valley, managing all sides of the flooring trade. Over the years one focus emerged out of the many elements of the trade: hardwood flooring. Nothing could compare to the natural, rich and authentic look and feel of wood floors, and no other material was as enjoyable to work with as real wood.
Today we are proud to have worked in the Prescott area with many local businesses, builders and homeowners for over 18 years, and have a solid reputation for quality and integrity. Browse our portfolio of past projects, read our testimonials, or give us a call at (928) 713-6785.
Thanks for considering Desert Hardwood Flooring for your project!
Frequently Asked Questions
To ask a question, please contact us.
Question: What types of flooring do you install?
Answer: We install all types of pre-finished hardwoods, solid & engineered, bamboo, cork, wood-laminate plank & tile, and vinyl planks (also called waterproof laminate). Installations can be over wood subfloors or glued down to concrete. We do not do site-finishing of wood flooring, but we do repair existing wood flooring.
Question: What floor prep is necessary before installing wood floors?
Answer: Floor prep is extremely important and is almost always needed. In an existing home, typically our installation will include tearing out old flooring such as carpet, pad and tackstrip. Then the exposed subfloor will get cleaned and checked for level – high and low spots must be taken into consideration. If they are too great, or excessive slab cracking has occurred, floor leveling compound must be floated over them to even out irregularities. On wood subfloors, subfloor panels (typically OSB) often need belt-sanding at the seams where they tend to peak up. Nails may need sinking, and screws placed where any subfloor is creaking. Carpet can hide many deformities in your subfloor that must be dealt with first, as wood flooring will not install successfully over such deformities.
Question: What else does the installation include?
Answer: Depending on the customer, we will move and replace furniture as needed. Also, baseboards will need to be removed from the wall and replaced over the new flooring, so as to conceal the expansion gap between the flooring and the wall. We will do this carefully so as to reuse the existing baseboards, and included in re-installing them we will puddy and caulk nail holes, seams and where the baseboard meets the wall. The only thing not typically in our installation will be the repainting of the baseboards after replacing, which will typically be needed. Ask about this if you are concerned, and we can include it in our estimate. New baseboards can also be an option, which we would install after the new flooring is down.
Question: What is the difference between solid and engineered wood flooring?
Answer: Traditionally, most wood floors were ¾ inch solid. Some still are, but solid wood floors have some disadvantages: they tend to expand and contract with temperature and humidity changes, leaving gaps between boards; also – solid wood planks cannot be glued down to concrete (with a few exceptions). Engineered wood planks are composed of several layers (up to 9 on some styles) of different woods, each bonded to the next in cross directions. The top layer the finished surface, and is what you see when it is installed. This creates an extremely stable product that will withstand shrinking or expanding much better than solids. Prefinished engineered woods are also treated with a very tough aluminum oxide (or equivalent) finish that resists wear well and is tougher than any site-finish polyurethane. For most people, engineered wood is the best choice, and will last as long as they own their homes, and beyond.
Question: What are the advantages of wood laminate?
Answer: Wood laminates are really not wood at all, but are made remarkably realistic and often can even fool an experienced eye. Since the surface of laminates is a formica or similar dense material, the advantages are primarily durability and longevity. In our opinion, nothing is as nice as real wood – but on the other hand, laminate can offer a more affordable and pragmatic alternative, while still looking great. If you have high traffic from outside (pets, kids, etc) and expect a lot of wear, laminate may be the best choice.
Question: What about the risk of water damage to wood flooring?
Answer: Both real wood (solid or engineered) and laminate are vulnerable to water damage from flooding. Generally speaking, splashes and spills that are cleaned up do not pose a problem. However, broken plumbing or anything that floods a floor with water will typically destroy it. (That’s why we all carry homeowner’s insurance!) The only plank flooring that will not be destroyed by flooding is vinyl plank flooring, which has all the appearance and functionality of laminate flooring.
Question: How do I care for wood flooring?
Answer: The main rule to remember is: no wet mopping. Most hardware stores sell Swiffer type dusters and hardwood flooring cleaner. The cleaner fluid can be sprayed lightly on the floor or on the cleaning pad attached to the bottom of the Swiffer. Even water will work for this purpose, or water with some white vinegar in it. Wood and laminate floors can also be swept or vacuumed when very dirty, but the Swiffer mop/duster is the best for regular light maintenance.
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